love & butter


Ligurian-style Tuna and Olive Salad

I’m all for fall: brisk air, crunchity leaves, that particular crisp autumn smell in the air of cool air and warm fires, the sky a paler blue and the colors of the world around you muted as if pulling little blankets over themselves in preparation for the coming chill. I like overcast days and rain, and I’m even okay with a hint of snow now and again (but just a hint). I like boots and scarves and gloves and pretty coats.

Good thing I live in Southern California.

Oh, it gets a little cooler here, but it’s different. A damp kind of cold, the milder version of the bone-deep chill you experience in the Bay Area. It’s not as much of a bundle-up kind of cold as it is wear a few layers, cozy under a blanket, drink something warm, light a nice fire, and get over it.

Even so, I like having something light and sunshiny to eat, to remind me of how sparkly and full of flavor the summer was. Especially this summer, with all those tomatoes. What a dream that was.

I came across two wonderful salad recipes this year, one in September when the farmers’ markets were still overflowing with heavenly produce, and one in October. They’re both vivid and brightly-flavored, with ingredients that complement and elevate each other. The second I’ll leave for another time, because the first should be made now – quick! – while there’s still a good tomato or two on the market. Plus, it’s perfect for those who are looking to stay away from carbohydrates but would like to feel full, at least for a second, and would like to keep enjoying food.

ligurian tuna and olive salad

The salad is a Ligurian-style tuna and olive salad, of sorts. The recipe came from the September issue of Food & Wine, and it looked intriguing. It also looked like something I could sort of throw together given what I had in my pantry, at the moment I was reading the issue – which was a moment at which I was hungry and in the mood to eat. What I made was not exactly the original recipe but a heavily bastardized version (this is becoming a theme here): I didn’t include the bread, because I didn’t have chickpea flour to make the farinata. I was out of capers, and I didn’t feel like opening a whole tin of anchovies for one or two, when I wasn’t sure when I’d be cooking with anchovies again. Instead, I whisked together some red wine and olive oil, put the remaining ingredients in a bowl, and tossed them together, serving them with fresh greens from the market.

The result? A continuation on the theme of “thank you, Italy.” Thank you for having someone clever enough to combine these ingredients, a jumble of salty, briny treats cozying up to fresh, sweet vegetables, tied together with warm, aromatic oregano and a hint of vinegar. Immediately after making my version of the salad, I went out and stocked up on capers and anchovies. I can’t wait to try it that way too. At this rate, I’ll be thanking Italy for the rest of the year.

Ligurian-style Tuna and Olive Salad
Adapted from Food & Wine, September 2007

1 1/2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1/8 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra if desired
1/2 pound tomatoes, diced
1/2 seedless cucumber—peeled, quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 scallion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives
1/4 cup torn basil leaves
1/2 Tbsp. chopped oregano
One 6-ounce cans or jars Italian tuna in oil, drained and flaked
1/2 Tbsp. drained capers (optional if you forget to stock the pantry, but probably fantastic, so make a list)
2 anchovy fillets, chopped (ditto)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

 

1. Combine the vinegar and olive oil. Whisk gently to emulsify.

2. Place the tomatoes, cucumber, scallion, olives, basil, oregano, capers, anchovies, and tuna in a medium sized bowl. Drizzle with vinegar and olive oil and toss. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with greens.

Serves 4.

4 Responses to “Ligurian-style Tuna and Olive Salad


  • Michelle
    November 10th, 2007 00:20
    1

    Love the redesign! LOVE LOVE tuna in oil! have you tried the white anchovies they are GRRREAT.

    I do not know if you are sometimes doing this beautiful cooking for your own self alone but if you are, I wanted to say YAAAY to you. So many times when I was doing meals and cooking demos at unnamed chi-chi market, I would end up pleading with people: “Yes, you CAN cook nice things for you! It’s OK to fuss over yourself and eat delicious things!” Especially true here in CA where everything is so good that it requires minimal fuss.

    <3,
    Michelle

  • leah
    November 10th, 2007 00:34
    2

    Dear everyone, you all need a friend like Michelle because she makes you feel FANTASTIC about your many endeavors and yourself and life in general. Go now and please find one.

    Thank you for commenting on the redesign! Yay. And no I have not tried the white anchovies but I will because I love anchovies (as opposed to when I was little and called them anchokies – as in I DON’T WANT NO ANCHOKIES ON MY PIZZA). However, you mentioning them made me realize I forgot to halve the amount of tuna and anchovies from the original recipe, but I have edited and made those adjustments.

    And yes, I suppose in a future post I ought to mention that almost everything I’ve cooked here has been for myself. There was the big duck dinner, but everything else I’ve made for li’l ol’ me. I agree – fuss over yourself and cook nice things! I’m glad you think I am making beautiful food – that’s high praise coming from you! xoxo

  • Dave Tee
    October 10th, 2008 08:20
    3

    Wow! I wish i could stay motivated enough to make the effort when it is just for me. I guess we should pamper ourselves more. I know i deserve it! Well don’t we all?

  • Huiles essentielles
    October 8th, 2009 20:51
    4

    mmm it sounds good, i will try it thanks for ideea..

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